How to Check Your Home Insulation Levels

On cold winter nights, people start thinking a lot more about proper home insulation levels. Insulation installed in the attic and often inside walls prevents both heat loss from the house during winter and heat gain in the summer. Most homes are insulated by either fiberglass batts or cellulose loose-fill.

How Much Is Enough?

Insulation is rated according to its R-value per inch. The higher the R-value, the more effectively the material inhibits the movement of heat.

In our Oklahoma climate zone, current standards recommend insulating the attic to a level of R38 to R60. For fiberglass batts, this translates to 12 to 18 inches. For cellulose, the depth should be 10 to 16 inches.

Wall cavities should be insulated to at least R13. The material should fill the cavity from top to bottom.

Checking Your Level

As the prime location for heat loss and heat gain, the attic is the most important part of the house to insulate adequately. Here's how to measure the level in the attic:

• Wear a long-sleeve shirt and long pants. A face mask to prevent inhalation of insulation fibers or other airborne particulates is a good idea too.

• Take a yardstick with you.

• Stay safe. Make sure you step only on the center walkway boards. Don’t step on insulation, as the ceiling below may collapse.

• To measure fiberglass batts, insert the yardstick down between the edge of the batt and the adjacent attic joist until it stops.

• Measure cellulose loose-fill by pushing the yardstick down into the mound of material until you feel it contact the ceiling below. Because cellulose depth may vary across the attic, take several measurements at different spots to arrive at an average.

Wall Insulation

If your home has insulated wall cavities, measuring isn’t a practical option for the do-it-yourselfer. Manual measurements would require opening up walls to access the enclosed insulation. A better alternative is to have a qualified HVAC contractor utilize thermal imaging to verify the amount and type of insulation inside the wall.

For professional advice and service to determine your home-insulation levels, contact the experts at Air Assurance.

5 Signs a New HVAC System Should Be On Your Christmas List

Finding a Christmas gift for that special someone in your life is often very difficult, but it's easy to find the perfect present for your home. A new HVAC system for your household will look great on Santa's list this year. Let's take a look at a few signs that might point to a new system this holiday.

The System Is Aging

HVAC systems are built to last for several years, but nothing stays functional forever. If your air conditioner is more than 10 years old or your furnace is more than 15 years old, then it's a good idea to begin thinking of a replacement.

Repair Costs Are Too High

You'll probably need to have your system repaired once several years have gone by, but there will come a point when it's just not feasible to keep fixing it. A good rule of thumb: If a repair is going to cost more than half of what a new unit will cost, then pick up a new one.

Increasing Energy Bills

There are numerous reasons why your energy bills could be rising, and an aging or malfunctioning HVAC system could be the culprit. Installing a new unit will help solve that problem. Plus, newer models are a lot more energy-efficient than previous ones, so you'll save money there too.

Strange Sounds or Odors

If you've been hearing strange noises or smelling strange odors coming from your equipment, these are signs that the system is in disrepair. Have a professional HVAC technician check it out and then decide if a replacement is necessary.

Poor Indoor Air Quality

Your HVAC system has a lot to do with the quality of the air in your home. If you've been noticing a drop in quality and a routine maintenance check doesn't solve the issue, then it could be time to put new equipment on your list.

If you'd like more expert advice on replacing your HVAC system or any other home comfort topic, reach out to the professionals at Air Assurance. We've been serving Broken Arrow and the surrounding communities since 1985.

How to Keep a Garage Warm in the Winter

An unheated garage is suitable for very little beyond storing your vehicles, your yard equipment and whatever else you can't stow away in the house.

But what if you'd like to make better use of that garage space? Maybe you'd like to create a workshop where you can do projects, for instance. Winters here in Broken Arrow can make that problematic.

The solution is to heat the garage. Read on for suggestions on creating a warm garage.

First, Insulate

Before you start shopping for heating equipment, do make sure your garage is air sealed and insulated. That can be a big project in itself, because some garage doors tend to fit loosely around the edges.

Finish the garage with drywall and don't stint on the insulation. Choose from these types of insulation: fiberglass batts or rolls; wet applied or blown-in cellulose; spray foam or injection foam.

Types of Heating for the Garage

Electric space heater: Electric space heaters are the simplest solution, but they are not necessarily the most efficient. While newer models cost less to run than in former days, they don't heat up the space as quickly as other types of heating.

Combustion space heater: These are inexpensive to run and do an adequate job of heating a small space, but a major concern is that they give off carbon monoxide. You will have to make sure the garage is well vented and that you are running a CO detector if using these.

Ceramic heater: These require electricity to run, but the heating element is ceramic instead of metal. Similar to the metal element heaters, they use a fan to distribute the heat.

Ductless mini split: These systems can provide cool air and/or heating. They are a type of heat pump, consisting of an outdoor condenser and an indoor air handler. They can be small and compact and are ideal for conditioning the air in a smaller space. They can be somewhat expensive but are efficient to run.

For more information on how to attain a warm garage, contact Air Assurance of Broken Arrow.

How to Get Energy Efficiency Improvement Rebates

Rebates offered by utilities and other public sources can help reduce the up-front expense of making energy efficiency upgrades to your home. Though most federal rebates expired by 2018, here in Broken Arrow, both Oklahoma Natural Gas and PSO (Power Service Company of Oklahoma) still sponsor rebate programs for local residents who make these energy efficiency upgrades. More information, as well as applications, are available at the utility websites.

Oklahoma Natural Gas

• $1,950 rebate for upgrading from an electric resistance furnace to a standard-efficiency, gas-fired furnace. If you upgrade to a high-efficiency gas furnace with 95%+ AFUE rating, the rebate increases to $2,500.

• A $400 rebate is available for purchasing a new natural gas-fired clothes dryer. If the dryer is a more efficient Energy Star-certified unit, the available rebate is $450. The plan also offers a $100 rebate on the cost of installing or extending natural gas piping necessary to connect the dryer.

• $250 rebates are offered for two types of water heater upgrades: a natural gas tankless water heater with an energy-factor rating of at least .82 or a natural gas-condensing water heater with a .82 energy-factor rating.

PSO

• Purchasing an Energy Star central air conditioner or heat pump with an efficiency rating of SEER 16 up to SEER 20 qualifies for a rebate ranging from $500 to $800, depending on the SEER rating of the unit.

• Replacing a standard HVAC blower with an efficient ECM blower qualifies for $25.

• Upgrading attic insulation above an R-22 rating can be eligible for a $400 rebate.

• Depending on your HVAC system capacity, rebates for ductwork sealing can range from $500 up to $800.

• Upgrade to a Honeywell Programmable Wi-Fi Thermostat and receive a $110 rebate.

• Get $500 back on an Energy Star-certified heat pump water heater.

• $50 rebates are available on each of the following Energy Star certified upgrades: electric clothes dryer, refrigerator, and clothes washer.

For more information about energy-efficiency upgrades available from local utilities, contact Air Assurance.

Best Heating and Air Company Tulsa

Air Assurance #1 in Tulsa OK

Best Heating and Air Company Tulsa - Air Assurance

For over 35 years, Air Assurance has been serving the Broken Arrow, and Greater Tulsa OK community by providing best in service for heating, air conditioning, and plumbing services. Air Assurance in Tulsa has had the honor to be named Best in Tulsa, for many categories of service, serving, and customer service. We’re not perfect, and at times we fall short of our own goals to serve our amazing community and clients. But when we have the opportunity to learn, be humble, and better our processes - we know you will be delighted with our services too. Give us the chance to serve you, whether it’s home or business, we would be delighted.

Our Services Include

Heating, Air Conditioning, & Plumbing Services

• Maintenance Services

• Diagnostic Repair Services

• New Installation

• Design Build

• Replacement Estimates

Just to list the highlights! When it comes to repair service for your heating and air conditioning system, we can service any brand like Lennox, Trane, Carrier, Goodman, American Standard, Rheem just to name a few. And when it comes to water heater repairs we can service your brand too, like Rheem, Standard, A. O. Smith Water Heaters, Rinnai Water Heaters, Eemax Water Heaters, Bosch Water Heatersd and more. Experience a company with a trained and skilled workforce - Air Assurance.

All About Backflow Prevention & Installation

Backflow prevention helps prevent contamination if the municipal water supply flows in the wrong direction. We’re all accustomed to expecting fresh water to flow in one direction only: into the home. However, certain events can actually reverse that flow. These include a system water main break, fire hydrants suddenly opened, or another occurrence that causes the municipal water pressure to plunge rapidly. This effect may reverse proper normal water flow, pulling water from various undesirable sources back into the system. Polluted or otherwise unsanitary water may therefore potentially contaminate the home water supply.

Safeguarding Your Water

A single device to prevent backflow installed at the water meter is often required by municipal codes. However, this may not adequately protect your individual home if the house includes cross-connections where tainted water can be siphoned backward into household water-supply pipes. Common home cross-connections that could potentially threaten your fresh water include: home sprinkler systems, swimming pools, boilers, fire sprinklers, outdoor fountains, or even something as simple as a handheld shower spray or a garden hose that might be immersed in tainted water.

Home backflow-prevention devices are essentially one-way valves that do not allow water to flow backward and enter the home supply lines. In typical residential applications, these devices may be installed at:

• Each outdoor hose bib or connection

• Lawn-sprinkler supply pipe

• Fire sprinkler supply pipe

• Heating system boiler

• Individual devices such as handheld shower sprayers

Getting The Job Done

An inspection by a qualified professional plumber is required to identify any parts of your plumbing system that may require backflow prevention. Devices are available in several different types, which are designed to adapt to a particular installation or requirement. Because events that trigger backflow generally occur without notice and may happen at any time, backflow devices function automatically.

For more about the benefits of home backflow prevention devices, contact the plumbing pros at Air Assurance.

Your Guide to Bathroom Ventilation

Effective bathroom ventilation is important for reasons including excessive humidity, potential mold contamination, odor control, and basic comfort issues. Bathrooms are generally the wettest room in the house and may affect general air quality throughout the entire home. In many locales, building codes today require some form of mechanical bathroom ventilation — beyond simply opening a window — to prevent these issues.

Bathroom exhaust fans are the most common method to ventilate bathrooms. Installed in the bathroom ceiling or in a bathroom wall, these electric units remove water vapor and odors rapidly, before damage or mold contamination is triggered. Here are some basics of bathroom fans:

• CFM capacity. The air-moving capacity of a bathroom fan is rated by its cubic-feet-per-minute (CFM) capacity. While the proper size can vary according to the number and size of bathroom fixtures like the bathtub, shower, and sinks; generally speaking, a bathroom exhaust fan should provide at least 1 CFM of ventilation per square foot of bathroom size (length x width.)

• Exterior venting. Venting bathroom fans directly into the attic is a terrible option. Moist bathroom air in the attic space triggers toxic mold growth and accelerates deterioration of exposed wooden attic structure. Bathroom fans should be connected to a dedicated duct that extends all the way to the exterior of the house. Vent fans installed in the wall must likewise exhaust outside, not into the wall cavity.

• Timer operation. A bathroom fan should run long enough to effectively exhaust water vapor and odors, but not too long, so as to avoid excessive loss of heat or cooling as well as wasted electricity. Bathroom fans should be connected to a timer switch to automatically shut off the unit after a preset duration. For best results, the fan should run for at least 15 minutes following a shower or bathing.

• Safety factors. Bathroom fans should be wired to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) circuit to prevent electrical hazards in the wet environment.

For more about the benefits of exhaust fans for adequate bathroom ventilation, contact the air-quality professionals at Air Assurance.

Lingering Smoke Smell Solution

There's nothing worse than a house that smells like smoke. It doesn't just come from smoking, either. Maybe you burned something while cooking. Maybe you just lit a few candles. Whatever the reason, here are a few ways to get the smoke smell out of your home.

Immediate Solutions

Say the smoke smell came from something fairly recent. Maybe your kitchen isn't well ventilated, or you lit a fire in the fireplace while the flue was closed. Getting rid of the lingering smoke isn't too difficult. Open a window, turn on a fan in the area where the smoke is, and wait.

You could try to use your HVAC system to filter the smoke out, but it might not be as effective as you'd like. To remove smoke from the air, you'd need a high-efficiency air filter, which won't fit in a regular HVAC system without damaging it. There are, however, certain special air filters designed to fit your HVAC unit, which claim to be able to remove smoke. Or, you could invest in a dedicated air purifier for your home that uses high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filters.

Long-Term Solutions

If the smoke smell has been building up in your home for years, such as from someone smoking, then you'll need to take more drastic measures. First, air out your home completely. Use your dedicated air purifier with HEPA filter, if you have it. Next, clean the carpets, drapes, and furniture. You can do it yourself, but if you want to be thorough, you're better off calling a professional.

Have your HVAC contractor examine your evaporator coil, as smoke can accumulate there. Finally, clean your ducts. This is another place where smoke residue can build up over time. As air flows through both the evaporator and your ductwork, it can then pick up that smoke residue and bring the smell right back into your home. Have them both thoroughly cleaned so your house can be smoke free.

For more tips on improving ventilation in your home, contact us at Air Assurance today. We provide the best home comfort solutions in Broken Arrow.

Do Your High Ceilings Affect HVAC Efficiency?

High ceilings add a soaring, spacious feel that expands the enclosed indoor environment. While the standard 8-foot ceiling has been the norm for decades, increasingly, homeowners are opting for a high ceiling in at least one central area of the home.

However, a ceiling 4 feet or more above standard height may alter heating and cooling dynamics in a room. Here are some ways that high ceilings may affect HVAC performance and efficiency:

Heating

In a room with a vaulted ceiling, naturally rising heat collects much higher above floor level. Occupants of a high-ceilinged room may be more likely to feel heat-deprived in winter.

Cooling

A room with a high ceiling contains a greater volume of air that must be kept cool during summer. While rooms with standard ceilings may receive sufficient circulating cool air, a coolness deficit can occur in rooms with a high ceiling.

Strategies to resolve comfort issues in rooms with a high ceiling include:

• Install a ceiling fan. A ceiling fan mounted in a room with a vaulted ceiling can be set to continuously blow air downward. In winter, the fan gently circulates heat accumulating at the ceiling back down into the living area to optimize comfort.

• Run the system fan. Most central HVAC systems provide the option to run the system fan continuously, even when the furnace or air conditioner function cycles off. This continuous air circulation helps mix cool and warm air more effectively and tends to keep temperatures in rooms with a high ceiling more consistent.

• Make sure your air conditioner capacity is properly sized. Air conditioner cooling performance is rated by BTU capacity. If one or more rooms in the house has a high ceiling, however, an air conditioner with insufficient BTU capacity may not produce sufficient cooling power to accommodate the substantially larger air volume in the room. Higher cooling costs and a lower comfort level may result.

For professional advice about effective, efficient cooling and heating in homes with high ceilings, contact the experts at Air Assurance.